NYC has been on the wine bar trend for some time now. Cute, intimate spaces with small plates, expensive/extensive wine lists, and specialty cocktails can be found all over the city, I’d wager in every neighborhood. But has the trend reached a peak? Does the world really need any more fluke crudo? Is it worth it to spend $60+ per person at a wine bar anymore? Was it ever?
Let’s compare some experiences to find out.
Disclaimer: I might not be the best judge for this one; as a pretty occasional drinker, I’m not terribly fussed about long wine lists (actually, they intimidate me). I’m semi-interested in complex cocktail crafting, but also happy to just have a normal negroni. Food is my safe zone (duh), so as usual, my assessments are focused on taste, vibe, and accessibility.
Justine’s on Hudson: Worth A Try
Taste: Justine’s (like many other wine bars) has a seasonal menu. What I really liked was how fresh and veg-forward this one was. Spring is in the air, and you can taste it in the peas and soft shell crab. Portions here are more generous than a lot of similar spots (less small plate, more share plate) and you can leave full with just 2-3 dishes for a group of two. Ironically, the wine was just okay. Nothing to write home about.
Vibe: A small space without feeling crowded. The plush, comfortable chairs at Justine’s will invite you to sip a little longer. People seem to feel relaxed and are having a good time here (including your servers). I’ll call it “living room fancy”.
Accessibility: It might be tough to just walk in on a Saturday, but you can easily make a reservation a few hours in advance. Definitely non-planner friendly. Cost per dish is high, but fortunately you won’t need to order 6 of these to walk away full.
Chambers: Don’t Waste Your Time and Money
Taste: Chambers makes good food, no doubt. What tips it out of favor for me is that I couldn’t remember a single thing I ate there 1 week afterward. Revisiting the menu, I’d say the highlights were the desserts. The mascarpone sandwiched between sheets of phyllo dough was delicious, the goat milk ice cream wowed. Definitely a safe bet for a date, but not a stunner. If you’re into wine, there might be more of a draw, as they do have interesting offerings and a somm to help.
Vibe: I walked straight by Chambers without realizing I’d missed the restaurant because I thought it was an office. To be fair, there was an office drinks sesh happening in the front space by the window, but the full interior still has a corporate edge to it. I’m sure the restaurant caters to Wall Street winos, so they’re doing their job just fine, but it wasn’t so comfortable to me.
Accessibility: This is not an impossible res, unless you want to eat at 7. For whatever reason, 7-8 is a tough get. They have a long bar space which you could probably walk into during the freer zones. Price wise, Chambers is standard for this type of restaurant ($$-$$$).
Ruffian: Worth A Try
Taste: This is a wine bar where you’re probably going to remember what you drank. The menu describing the wines is so descriptive – whimsical, even – it’s bound to leave an impression, even if the wine on its own didn’t. Personally, the Macedonian sparkling wine I enjoyed there was one of the best I’ve had! Plus, if you can’t choose based on descriptions like “hi-toned electric princess juice”, your friendly server will be sure to help you out with some samples. Both wine and food change to fit a regional theme every few months. Food-wise, the descriptions are far less helpful, but the all-vegetarian options are very good. The latest menu there is Georgian themed and includes many delicious dips as well as more substantial items like khachapuri.
Vibe: In the winter, Ruffian is just a long bar with ~15 seats. In the warmer seasons though, the outdoor space easily doubles capacity. While inside is mostly candle-lit with some quirky details, outside is decidedly less romantic – a pretty standard outdoor shed space. If you’re on a date, try for indoor seating, otherwise let the good wines roll and be grateful 7th street isn’t too crazy.
Accessibility: Reservations are preferred, since the space is so small, but you can definitely walk in here at not-quite-peak hours. Ruffian is good for just grabbing a drink, and taking advantage of their -$2 on any glass during happy hour wouldn’t be a bad idea either.
Cervo’s: Don’t Waste Your Time and Money
Taste: Cervo’s is a seafood restaurant that’s big on natural wines. There’s a lot of good flavors happening on the menu, but honestly the execution didn’t click for me. Dishes feel a bit one-note with perhaps too large a portion – weird to say, but there was a point when I thought “huh, I’m still eating this”. Clams don’t quite make for a great reheat.
Vibe: Cervo’s is decidedly cute, with a sort of 'updated from old-school tablecloth' vibe. Fitting for the Spanish-Portuguese menu. Most of the seating is counter/bar stool and things are a bit crowded (expect an elbow bump or two with your neighbor). You probably won’t want to stay sitting for long (bar stools), so don’t plan on an extended meal.
Accessibility: Alas, here’s where things really fall apart. Fridays and Saturdays are impossible. Even trying to book a month out on a weeknight, your only options may be pre-6 or post-9 bookings. I strongly doubt you can walk in without a wait, and honestly, I just don’t think it’s worth waiting for.
Claud: Don’t Waste Your Time and Money
Taste: People seem to love this place, but I don’t get the hype. The food here is very well executed, just forgettable. I’m talking the most basic crudo (with very high quality fish) you’ve ever had. Wine I couldn’t tell you what it was – something white? The only really memorable thing I had here that has since rotated off the seasonal menu was the swordfish, which had a very unique tangy sauce. It sort of tasted like a buffalo sauce with all the hot spice drained out of it (better than it sounds, I swear).
Vibe: Sterile basement. Honestly, this is where I fail to get the attraction to Claud. It’s going for a minimalist vibe, but if you replaced the tables with operating room equipment I don’t think they’d feel that out of place.
Accessibility: Claud is a tough resy that feels like it shouldn’t be. I worked hard for a 2-seater at the bar on a Wednesday night and that just feels wrong. A place requiring that much effort should be a stunner, not feel like a basement copy of Nudibranch (which you definitely can walk into on a weeknight). Price point matches the hard-to-get resy, but again, doesn’t really feel worth it.
The verdict? Wine bars are here to stay, but the next wave of these high end establishments will a little more down to earth – easy, cozy, a little quirky. Gone are the days when it was worth it to elbow your way into a hotspot wine bar. There are too many to have to play the game. My suggestion? Find what feels good and ignore the hype.
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